Agi & Sam
Alexander McQueen
Burberry
Gieves & Hawkes
Menswear is something very new to me, and with the fourth season of London Collections: Men over I thought it was worth trying something new, but please don't hold this against me, for I like to consider my main expertise to be in womenswear, but then I wouldn't be much of a Fashion Journalist if I don't cover all things fashion that interest me, would I?
Menswear. It's what the English have always been good at. It's sharp tailoring; it's constructing an art work around the male form; it's the English talent.
Agi & Sam, a pair known for their use of colour, have presented a monochromatic collection this season, focussing instead on the mating of the third world and the first world: traditional Western garments, such as the double-breasted jacket, are merged with African influences, with woven fabrics and the Masai check; proving that marrying two entirely different cultures can make a beautiful whole.
Sarah Burton's collection for Alexander McQueen hearkened back to times of McQueen's own menswear collections and also drew references from the deconsecrated church the show was held in. The show was predominantly monochrome, in essence to "cleanse the pallette" as Burton claimed.
Androgyny was an obvious theme for Burberry's collection, a man's version of décollatage with silk scarves draped across the shoulders to present a seemingly elegant menswear collection. In contrast, the scarves were paired with white string vests that exude male sexuality and physicality. "A Painterly Journey" was the title Bailey gave this show and so another theme was art shown through beautiful prints and hand-painted leathers.
On to a more traditional form of English tailoring, Gieves & Hawkes has made a comeback. Sit back, relax, enjoy. This show was mainly comprised of watching some exceedingly good-looking men strut down the catwalk in beautifully tailored clothes. It comes as no surprise that Gieves & Hawkes is actually based on Savile Row. However, this historical tailors comes with new beginnings as Jason Basmajian, the new creative director, injects his own energy into the brand; bringing leather goods and eye-wear to the table this season.
Ruby
Beautiful male models in that collection....
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